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Temples of Northern Bali
Characteristic flowery nordbalinese style of decoration
Northern Bali's temples notable for its statuary and carved panels and the characteristic flowery nordbalinese style of decoration are very different from the ones from southern Bali. Pura Meduwe Karang in Kubutambahan and in Sangsit, in the outskirt of Singaraja are two outstanding examples of this style Pura Beji and Pura Dalem.

Meduwe Karang

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Meduwe Karang (Lord of the field) temple is dedicated to the male counterpart of the rice goddess Dewi Sri, worshipped by the residents of the area for good harvests. Severely damaged in the 1917 earthquake, the temple as we see today is the result of the reconstruction of 1980.
Before the complex, staggered on terraces, there are 34 stone sculptures depicting figures from the Ramayana epic with the giant Kumbakarna in violent battle with hordes of monkeys from Sugriwa´s army.
After a small vestibule a Candi Bentar leads to the first courtyard, empty except for a large Bale and decorated with staues of demons and normal people, including elderly people and mothers with babies and toddlers.

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Meduwe Karang


By another split gate we enter the second courtyard dominated by the main sanctuary that sits on a platform. The temple is perfectly simmetrical, the central padmasana is the seat of the sun god Surya in the form of the Lord of of the field (Meduwe Karang) the padmasana rest above the two snakes entwined around the underworld turtle. At the sides there are two shrines dedicated to Ratu Sari Ayu, a manifestation of the Earth Mother, and Sari Ratu Ngurah, the protector. On both sides of the platform are two more shrines.
Especially remarkable are all the sculptures and reliefs, demons, lovers and aristocrats pose with their servants, on the side of the platform of the main sanctuary there is the famous relief depicting a cyclist. This is probably a representation of the Dutch artist WOJ Nieuwenkamp on his vehicle, still unknown to the local population.

Meduwe Karang

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Pura Beji and Pura Dalem.
These two temples are in the village of Sangsit few kilometres East of Singaraja, built in the 15th Century by the local subak, the cooperative of rice farmers. Pura Beji is a typical example of the nordbalinese style. The temple, devoted to the rice and fertility goddess Dewi Sri, is a rather small temple and one of the most beautiful in the region. The exuberant sculptures and decorations of gates, walls and pavilions are the key attraction for the visitor, in addition the building does not consist of the usual black volcanic rock but rather pink sandstone.

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Pura Beji


The entrance doorway by the road is covered with sculptures of gods, demons, mythical creatures, guardian figures and kayonan, the cosmic symbol of the World Tree which grows in heaven and its branches curl down to earth.
Access to the inner courtyard is trough a covered gate (kori agung) with an aling aling, the architectural element put transversally to the entrance to prevent to evil spirits the direct sight of the sacred courtyard. The doorway is richly decorated with various mythical creatures and demonic guardians, snarling or even laughing figures.
In place of the usual bales and meru towers in the inner courtyard (Jeroan) the various devotional elements are arranged on a single platform oriented to the east. The plethora of reliefs is very impressive, the entire surfaces of walls, gates, platforms and shrines is littered with countless sculptures of mythical animals and exuberant ornamentation and reliefs: with flower patterns, arabesques, demons and sculptures of Garuda.

Pura Beji

Bali stock photographs


From the left side of the Pura Beji there is a narrow footpath that leads to Pura Dalem after a short walk trough rice fields. This small pura dalem is of nordbalinese style with the typical baroque opulence of decoration. The covered gate (kori agung) is directly in front and carved on the front wall there are erotic pictures and gruesome depictions of the hell, the feature of this Pura Dalem. Such representations as in many rural cultures are directly related to the fertility of the fields and were once widely used on Bali, until in the 1930s when the Dutch imprinted their moral on the Balinese culture.

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Pura Dalem




  Related Pages
- Balinese traditional landscape
- Religion in Bali
- Balinese Dance
- Balinese Temples


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