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Pura Besakih
Bali most sacred temple
Bali most sacred temple, the mother temple Pura Besakih is one of the five state temples of the island, together with Pura Tanah Lot, Pura Batukau , Pura Goa Lawah and Pura Ulu Watu. This important sanctuary is located about 1000m above sea level on a steep slope of the south-western flank of Gunung Agung, the highest mountain in Bali, revered as the throne of the gods and serving for the majority of Balinese population as a fixed point of the orientation system as Kaja. Due to this exceptional location the orientation of the temple conforms the theoretical Balinese orientation system in the Kaja - Kelod direction line, (Kaja = mountain, Kelod = sea, Kangin = sunrise, Kauh = sunset).

Pura Besakih

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The Pura Besakih complex includes about 30 individual complexes and a total of approximately 200 buildings, the great Pura Penataran Agung alone includes 60 individual buildings on a seven terraces lined up one behind the other, with the main shrine - the three-seat lotus throne, the seat of honor for Sanghyang Widhi Wasa - on the second terrace. There are numerous side shrines. Each tribe, each professional guild, any village or community has shrines and altars in the attempt to connect its own temple with the central sanctuary. These side temples are also related to cardinal directions, the great Pura Penataran Agung is representing the Centre, the Pura Dangin Kreteg the South; Batu Madeg the North, the Pura Gelap the East and the Ulun Kulkul the West.

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Pura Besakih


The Visit.
The main car park is located a the southern end of the complex. From the car park you walk uphill the 1 km long processional way. From here you start a walk that is a mandala pilgrimage “in miniature” around the Besakih complex. First the Ulun Kulkul temple representing Mahadewa (West). You continue walking and after some souvenir stalls, you reach the complex marked by a Balinese style statue of Saraswati riding a swan.
You continue walking uphill and on the right you find various secondary complexes: the first that you will note is Pura Banua Kawan with at the corner Pura Merajan Kanginan and, after a vast grassland expanse, you pass three low stepped terraces with, on your right, the Pura Basukian Puseh Jagat complex; now you find yourself at the foot of the big stepped terraces the entrance of the Pura Penataran Agung.
Splendidly dressed Balinese people with turban and sarong, women laden with offerings walk along the central footpath to the left of the immense staircase leading to the top, skirting the eastern wall of the temple.
On the right hand side of the central footpath there are various secondary temples called Pura Pedarman and dedicated to the great family lineages of the island.

Pura Besakih

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The main complex of Pura Penataran Agung is organised in six court yards each on a different level.
The stair of the 8 terraces leading to the Candi Bentar are flanked by mythological figures from the Mahabharata epic, the female figures associated with the evil are to the right, climbing uphill, while the good male figures are located on the opposite side of the stairs. All the statues are adorned with black-and-white checkered cloths symbolizing the contrast of the white = good and black = evil. Only worshippers are allowed to use the entrance stairway.
At the top of this imposing 52 steps stairway there is the Candi Bentar (the Balinese split gate) flanked by two bale kulkul (pavillon with the characteristc gong made by a wooden log split in two).

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Pura Besakih


In the first courtyard are two pavilions used by the gamelan orchestras.
The second terrace is entered by a Kori Augung (covered gateway) usually closed, we entered passing by the two smaller side doorways. Here is the main focus of worship: the padmasana tiga (triple lotus throne) dedicated to the deity Sanghyang Widhi Wasa as manifest in the triple persona of Siwa, Sadasiwa and Paramasiwa. Very noticeable are an eleven roofed meru and a nine roofed meru built side by side.
Continuing up the staircase is the third terrace, on the western left side are two merus with seven and eleven tiers and other meru towers from the 14th century.
The fourth terrace has one central meru with eleven roofs. The fifth terrace has two pagodas dedicated to deified ancestors.
The highest terrace contains two little shrines, both dedicated to the deified Mount Agung.

Pura Besakih

Bali stock photographs


Beyond this, outside the main precinct, there is a small temple dedicated to the Smiths' guild called on some maps Pura Ratu Pande. Very interesting is an image of Ida Sang Hyang Widi or the Supreme God found on the back wall of a bale (seen only from outside the wall of the precint), he is dancing on a bull, he has a moustache and four hands. The similarity to Siva is striking.
Continuing further uphill we reached the highest temple, the Pura Gelap (Temple of Lightning) representing Iswara the protector of the East. The three courtyards of the temple are arranged in three different levels, each one accessed by an imposing stairway. Carved out of black lava a spectacular staircase framed by two a snake-dragon climbs towards the first courtyard of the sanctuary. A triple staircase at base of a Kori Augung (covered gateway) gives access to the inner courtyard. During our visit in the second courtyard there was a Topeng (mask) performance accompained by a gamelan orchestra, while in the inner court yard there was a big ceremony with a lot of people, offerings and a shadow puppet performance.

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Pura Besakih




  Related Pages
- Balinese traditional landscape
- Religion in Bali
- Balinese Dance
- Balinese Temples


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