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| From Leh to Tso Kar, Tsomo Riri and Manali |
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This region, called 'Rupshu' the region of the nomadic Khampas, is characterized by rounded mountains of 6.500 m covered with perennial snow. The track crosses the highland passing by a series of small lakes before reaching the shores of the greatest lake of the region: the Tso-Moriri. The presence of these damp zones is important for the trans-Himalayan migratory routes.
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Tso Kar
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to Tso-Kar
We follow the national highway to Manali. After Upshi we leave the Indus valley and take the road that climbs the Tanglang La (5328 m), the ascent takes about three hours with an endless series of hairpin bends.
After the Tanglang La the route crosses the Morey area and becomes more flat. At a crossroad turning to the left we leave the road to Manali for the Tso Kar lake, crossing this beautiful area of Rupshu. Tso-Kar means white lake because of the white natural salt deposit that surround it on all sides making a beautiful contrast with the deep blue of the waters. We sleep in one of the tented camp close to the lake shore.
Tso Kar |
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to Tso Moriri (Korzok)
We leave Tso Kar and following a dirt road in horrible conditions, we drive to Polo Kongka La. Along the way we see tents of Changpa nomads made out of yak's wool, the Changpas call them rebo. For ages Changpas have been cattle breading nomads trading salt a very precious product in the Himalayan region. A few lakes in Ladakh and Tibet have salt deposit and this salt is collected by the Changpas and traded miles away. Today the life of Changpas are changing, they mainly trade in the valuable pashmina wool.
After the village of Sumdo there are no more villages, only some Changpas tents. After the Namshang La (4800 m) the patch of blue of Thadsang Karu, a smaller lake, comes on sight. Finally we come upon Tso Moriri, a huge expanse of clear water surrounded by brown mountains. Located close to the China border at an altitude of 4450 m Tso Moriri is the India's highest lake (some 20 km in length and 5 to 8 km width). We drive along the coast before reaching the village of Korzok, close to the shore. Korzok is undergoing some major changes with construction work everywhere, the Changpas it seems are giving up their old nomadic life style and settling down. Korzok has a non-spectacular Buddhist Gompa (Monastery).
This area is important for water birds like Brahmin duck, black-necked crane, brown-headed gull, etc. We saw a number of bar headed geese floating on the water.
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Tso Moriri
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to Keylong
Next morning we bid farewell to Tso Moriri and we travel back again to the Tso-Kar passing some hovels, winter shelter of the nomad, where a school and a small monastery it is found.
Having get over the lake we take back the national highway to Manali. The road crosses an ample valley. With some fortune, we sight some Kyangs, the wild horse of Tibet and some big herds of the famed pashm goats that are bred by the nomadic Khampas in this eastern region of Chang Thang.
About 5 km before Pang the road passes through a suggestive series of gorges. With its 5060 m high the Lachlung La is the second highest pass on the road from Leh to Manali. The following 20 km are a series of narrow hairpin bends and among these the impressive Gata Loops, 21 dreadful zigzag turns on the side of the mountain.
Passed the Sarchu camp (4100 ms), just over the Himachal Pradesh border, we reach the BaralachaLa (4883 m). After another one hour trip we reach Patseo. Here the road begins to follow the course of the river Bhaga in direction of Tandi, where it meets the river Chandra. Darcha is the second important camp along the road. Soon after Darcha we cross Jispa, another big camp.
We spent the night at Keylong, the first place of a certain importance before Manali, in one modern hotel that stands out amidst the tiny village.
the Great Himalayan Range |
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to Manali
The road for Manali continues toward southeast climbing in direction of Gondla, Sissu and Khoksar. In the proximities of Sissu there is a beautiful fall inserted in a magnificent background of spectacular emerald mountains. From Gramphu the road for Kaza penetrates into the region of Lahaul and Spiti. The Rohtang La (3978 m) marks the beginning of the long descent down to the Kulu Valley and the picturesque town of Manali, surrounded by forests and mountains.
We arrived late in the afternoon but we still had the time to make a short stroll in the lovely Old Manali Village (under restoration/destruction). Here the modern but lovely Manu Maharishi Temple in the place where Manu meditated when it arrived in this region.
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the Great Himalayan Range
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