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| Chinchero
and Paucartambo on the road to Manu |
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Chinchero
Located at almost 4,000 masl on the road that at the time of Tahuantinsuyo led directly to Machu Picchu, Chinchero is a village that still maintains the Incan urban design. Chinchero is placed in the middle of a beautiful cultivated wide plateau, with the Piuray and Huaypo lagoons and the imposing snow-capped mountains of Salcantay and Veronica, in whose slopes potatoes are cultivated.
The population is composed of twelve indigenous communities that maintain Tahuantinsuyo's organization system, and many of the inhabitants still wear their traditional clothes with colourful cloth caps. There is a legend that maintains the town was the birthplace of the rainbow and there is a special rainbow ceremony on May 2.
Its main square has a huge Incan wall decorated by twelve large trapezoidal niches, one of the most significant
colonial church and the house that belonged to Mateo García Pumacahua, caudillo of an anti-colonialist rebellion in 1814. To one side of the square there is a large extension of beautiful Incan terraces. Most of the structures built on these terraces had disappeared, but Incan stone structures are still used as foundations.
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Chinchero
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The large church was erected on the Incan walls of the palace of Túpac Yupanqui. The church dimensions and its murals give account of the importance of
Chinchero. The inner walls and the roof are covered with wall painting, it is possible to see paintings representing the Virgin of
Monserrate, with an interesting view of the town, the procession of the cacique Pumacahua and the defeat of Túpac
Amaru. It is interesting seeing a struggle between two mythological beings in heaven: a puma bites the neck of a dragon or
Amaru, heraldic emblems of the rival caudillos.
Chinchero |
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In the main square in front of the colonial church from time immemorial is carried out every Sunday the colourful
handicrafts fair. The market is one of the few in where people practice the primitive barter purchase-sale system called
"trueque".
Paucartambo and the road to Manu
Travelling towards Manu Reserve the road leaves the beautiful Cusco valley clinging to the side of the mountain through some spectacular scenery of mountains dotted with villages and adobe dwellings. This is the puna region, Quechua territory.
Before reaching Paucartambo at 3,750 masl at a place called Ninamarca there are more than 14
chullpas (pre-Inca tombs) built between 1150 and 1250 with grass and earth.
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Ninamarca pre-inca tombs
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110 km from Cusco, Paucartambo (place of the flowers) is a typical colonial village, famous for the celebration of the Virgen del Carmelo (Carmen Virgin) that take place in July, when a lot of people come to worship her Mamacha Carmen with a great feast and autochthonous dances. Its narrow and stony streets, small squares and big houses with balconies and wide halls give to Paucartambo a strong colonial air. The
old bridge of Carlos III spans the Mapocho river from two rocky boulders, it was built on 1775 in the place were there was an old Inca bridge.
Paucartambo |
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From this town, the road goes up to the Ajcanacu pass at 3739 m the last Andean pass that marks the entrance to the National Park of Manu. We were able to look out from the last range of the Andes over the Amazon basin stretching into the distance, as the Incas did in ancient times, worshipping the sun rising over the endless rainforest.
From here starts the cloud forest and with a long and strenuous journey down the eastern slope of the Andes we travelled down by the valley of Kosñipata as far as the village of Pilcopata in the bed of Madre de Dios and Manu River.
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Ajcanacu pass
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